Local
Breads: Sourdough and Whole-Grain Recipes from Europe's Best Artisan
Bakers by Daniel Leader. Hardcover book published by W. W. Norton &
Company 2007, 355 pages with some black and white illustrations and
colour photographs.
“Is
this how they make them in France?” As Dan Leader watched Rolf, one
of the bakers at Tobias Maurer’s Stuttgart bakery, shape French
loaves, Dan thought that he had misheard Rolf’s question. Stuttgart
is a six- hour train ride from Paris, and it was incomprehensible to
Dan that this master baker, who spent his life making different kinds
of German rye breads, wouldn’t be aware of French baguettes. All
over Europe, the bakers Dan visited in his search for unique artisan
breads were, like Rolf, devoted to baking locally. It is this
commitment to place and tradition that accounts for their greatness.
Although globalization has made its way across Europe, Dan managed to
discover local bakers in great numbers making breads handed down from
their grandfathers and great-grandfathers, improving on the old
recipes and adapting them to new technology, but always with an eye
to keeping tradition alive. In Local Breads: Sourdough and
Whole-Grain Recipes from Europe ‘s Best Artisan Bakers, Dan
provides us with both colorful stories of the people he found —
local artisans making local breads — and their treasured recipes,
which he has translated for American home bakers.
I've
eaten bread more than a few times in my life and it is something that
I enjoy eating, particularly if it is tasty and is as far away from
the taste of tasteless cardboard, as possible. Discovering new
breads is a real joy. A few weeks back I was at a function here in
Clunes, when someone I know wheeled out a basket full of home made
Parker House rolls. If you're as up to date with
breads of the world as i am, you are probably as perplexed as i was.
What is a Parker House roll? (Click here and all will be revealed.) The
reason i mention these rolls is that they were quite simply
outstanding in both taste and texture and they were picture book is
appearance (they looked great).
Parker
House rolls are not European and therefore are sadly not in this
book. European bread is what this book considers in all its doughy
glory. I've travelled through Europe a few times and i have to say
that i don't particularly remember the breads i ate. I do remember
the beers and various other bits and pieces, but bread is not
something that i came back to Australia wanting to share anecdotes
with others about. I wonder if that's me or was it the bread. I
think we have some amazing breads from all over the world here in
Australia so there is the possiblity that my taste buds were tasting
what i've already known and loved for many years. This sounds a bit
arrogant but seriously if you go out of your way, don't shop at a
supermarket and avoid mass produced tasteless white bread, the bread
here is pretty damn good. Which leads me to another theory about why
i don't remember much about European bread and that has to do with
knowing where to go to get the good stuff and avoiding the bad stuff.
Travelling through Europe, i wasn't focussed on bread and clearly,
according to this book, i have missed out. I should have been
exploring the bakeries and tasting their wares...which is exactly
what the author of this book did. This is something to look forward
too the next time i venture forth.
Regardless
of why or how i missed out on the breads of europe, this is a book
filled with many varied and detailed recipes from “Europe's Best
Artisan Bakers”. Maybe this is how i can taste the breads of
Europe... bake them myself.
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